Where To Buy Future Floor Wax
Thanks Eric and all. Then, do I get the impression that there is no satisfactory solution to a high gloss finish that doesn't look too thick on our models? When I am thinking of high gloss, I'm thinking of the gloss on smooth-sided passenger cars, for example, where you can see a reflection in the car side.
where to buy future floor wax
wabash2800Thanks Eric and all. Then, do I get the impression that there is no satisfactory solution to a high gloss finish that doesn't look too thick on our models? When I am thinking of high gloss, I'm thinking of the gloss on smooth-sided passenger cars, for example, where you can see a reflection in the car side.
If you don't intend to remove the glazing in the future, then it should not be an issue. However, should you ever have to disassemble your car and remove the glazing strips, there is a small possibility that, due to the clear's adhesion (whether it's Future, Testors, Badger, etc), some tiny bits of the clear may break off along the edges of the individual windows and window frames. Remember, clear coat that's airbrushed on literally acts like a "sealer"on tiny gaps, nooks, and crannies as well.
wabash2800 ....I get the impression that there is no satisfactory solution to a high gloss finish that doesn't look too thick on our models? When I am thinking of high gloss, I'm thinking of the gloss on smooth-sided passenger cars, for example, where you can see a reflection in the car side....
1. Sealing Miniatures - once a miniature is painted and completely dry, dip it in future (or brush it on). It will 'smooth out' all the colors, improve the look of drybrushed and washed areas as well as give it a super-tough coating to protect your paint job.
2. Create custom 'dip' colors that are easy to clean up - add a drop or two of ink or watered down paint to a cup of future to get a custom miniature dip. You can make it any color you have paint for and it gives very similar effects to MinWax Polyshades, but is easier to clean up and there are no limits to the colors.
I use it a lot. I thin my acrylics with a mix of Future and water at about 40/60 (future/water). I used to use Future to seal my minis, but I now use a spray on matte finish instead, the future by itself leaves them shiny.
One problem I am starting to have is finding Future/Pledge floor polish at my local stores (Portland, OR). It appears more and more floor care products are going to the "one use and toss it" route, and only one store locally still had liquid polish the last time I checked. It might be a good idea to stock up if you still have a good supply source in your area.
I got it from a nearby grocery store. At first I wasn't sure where to get it (or if it was even available in Sweden) but I contacted SC Johnsons through their website (firstname.lastname@example.org) and got an anwser the following day. Turns out that it was much more common than I thought it was. Up to a few minutes ago I thought that of course it's available in Denmark as well but now I'm not so sure. I did a search and they don't have a office in Denmark (Link to their european offices). Although that doesn't mean it's not sold there. In Sweden you can get it at Ica, Coop Forum, City Gross and Ö&B.
First of all, FUTURE, as a brand, was discontinued many years ago. It was bought out and changed names. Essentially, it was a clear acrylic floor wax that people found could be airbrushed or brushed on to provide a clear gloss coat. Thus, what you should be looking for is a clear acrylic floor wax where you shop.
That said, you may find several different brands available. I believe the people who bought out Future put it back out under the PLEDGE label (Pledge with Future shine). I'd look at those products first, and if you can find that WITH the "All Purpose" label; THAT is supposed to be the original formula that Future used. They do have other more specialized floor shine products, but I can't vouch for those.
The Holloway House Quick Shine floor finish in the green container is available in the UK from Lakeland. A lot more expensive than the old Kleer. 16 per bottle but still much cheaper than modelling aimed products.
To tint the windshield, first dip the windshield in Future and let it drain off, blott the thin edges with a paper towel to avoid pooling. Let it dry for a few hours. Then add food dye to some Future and repeat the first part. Let Dry. Repeat if needed. If you mess it up, just take a cotton swab and wipe it off with clear future and re apply!
My experience, though I primarily airbrush it onto things, is that yes, it flows like very thinned out nail polish. I say that in the sense that yes it does self level out! If you do not get the consistancy or shine that you want, just add another layer until you get close to it! Also, I have found that NO you can not polish it out with conventional methods that most use. However, you can take a damp soft cotton pice and rub it out to a higher shine! You can also use future as a sealer/barrier. If you do some body work, removing lines or chrome, or doing kustom body work. Once you have it smoothed out, you can use the future to seal it so that there are no ghost lines from the model later on! Thanks. Jody
Jason here is my test run on future. The shine is great but it left bubbles everywhere. You can see model boxes in the reflection. Maybe its the brush I used? I won't give up I think I was actually to sparing and did not put it on thick enough to 'level" ?? I am just tyring to figure out how to brush to cause this seems to be a subject most leave alone
Hey Brian..the trick is not the brush BUT the LIQUID!...I learned that you must brush it on slow and heavy...and if you see bubbles in the container that your brushing from...your gonna get them in the finish. BUT..with future just strip it off with windex and reapply. I have found two coats applied with a soft 2" brush will work quite well....you put it on thick and as it levels it will leave thicker spots in places like corners and edges...GENTLY wick the excess away I use the corner of a paper towel...and let it dry...leave it alone to dry overnight!!
You can also dip small parts like headlights, windshields etc. It actually makes the clear parts more clear and they look thinner even though you added a layer of clear. This also helps to remove the small nicks and scratches you often find if the clear parts are not bagged seperately. I have a wide mouth jar I keep the Future in, then leave the part / parts on a piece of sprue for a handle and dip them into the future. I shake off as much back into the jar as I can then just touch the corners where the Future accumulates to a paper towel which draws the excess away. Then I just hang it by the sprue until dry.
Sgt. Slag, I have never had any long-term smell issues with Minwax Polyshades. I always hit it with Dull Coat when dry and before I apply any highlights or metals. Never an issue, and frankly I absolutely hated the smell of the pledge/future stuff.
BTCTerrainman, I Dip'ed a couple of hundred 54mm Army Men figures. I never matte coated them, for many years. The Minwax continued to off-gas/stink, for 5+ years. I had them stored in an open unit, which fed the odors into the rest of the room. I agree, sealing them with a matte clear coat likely would solve my issue. I will put that to very good use in the future. Thank you.
*Based on a scientific study using a proprietary test method to evaluate the efficacy of Mop & Glo Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner in helping floors stay cleaner versus unpolished floors.**Based on Nielsen unit share data for the 52 week period ending October 8, 2011.***Based on a scientific study using a proprietary test method to evaluate and compare the limescale cleaning efficacy of Lime-A-Way versus the leading all-purpose cleaner.Trademark Information:MOP & GLO
Wing tip landing lights, aileron mass balances, cargo bin hatch and that main gear wheel all need to be attached, and the fuselage decal and upper wing registration. One more coat of Future acrylic floor wax over the repainted nose and to seal the last decals. Paint touch up. Antennae and navigation lights would be a terrificly good idea but that may end up being the second chapter. 041b061a72